The address was Palazzo Citterio, an eighteenth-century mansion off Via Brera that spent decades shut and reopened last year as a museum. Loro Piana showed Spring/Summer 2026 inside it, among Modigliani and Morandi, and let color into a wardrobe that usually speaks in sand.
The house made its name on fibre. Vicuña, baby cashmere, the merino it buys by the bale in Australia and New Zealand. That heritage pulls toward the muted: camel, oatmeal, stone, the colors of the raw material before anyone touches it. For Milan Fashion Week the studio kept the materials and changed the register.
The room
Palazzo Citterio sits beside the Pinacoteca di Brera and holds a collection of modern and contemporary art. Its long renovation left the rooms bright and spare. Loro Piana ran the show as a walk through connected spaces, the silhouettes passing work by Picasso and Morandi on their way through.
Colored carpets marked the route across the floor. Mirrored surfaces and lacquered panels set a harder line against the softness of the clothes. Leather goods sat on Italian vintage furniture chosen piece by piece, which put the new bags in something closer to a home than a display case.
The palette
The collection moved from sandy tones and creams into red, yellow and turquoise. Loro Piana treats color the way it treats cloth, in blends and gradations rather than blocks. A coat carried several neutrals that read as one from across the room. The brighter notes came in whole garments.
Womenswear turned on the double-faced coat, the technique the house is known for, cut without lining so the cloth shows the same face on either side. Light dresses moved against the heavier pieces. Two new bags, the Gioia Shopper and the Just Bag, held the accessories together.
A house can afford color once it has nothing left to prove about cloth.
The Splendid EditThe men
Menswear kept a nautical line. Soft blazers, chinos worn loose, knitwear in marine tones. Footwear and bags grounded the looks without raising their voice. The two collections shared a palette and the same unhurried ease, and neither pushed harder than the other.
Loro Piana calls itself Masters of Fibres, and the phrase usually points at texture. This season it pointed at color. The materials did not change. The house decided to show what they look like when they stop whispering.
Loro Piana Spring/Summer 2026, Palazzo Citterio, Milan. Courtesy of Loro Piana
The Splendid Edit on Loro Piana Spring/Summer 2026 at Palazzo Citterio. Collection and venue details from LVMH.