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Demna has chosen New York for his first cruise collection at Gucci. The date is 16 May. The venue stays secret. The city does the talking.

In November 1953, Guccio Gucci opened a small shop at Seven East Fifty-Eighth Street, on the corner of Fifth Avenue. The space sat inside the old Savoy-Plaza Hotel, opposite the Sherry-Netherland and the Plaza. It was the first Gucci store outside Italy.

That same November, Guccio Gucci died in Florence. His son Aldo took the reins and turned a Florentine leather house into a global label. New York was the door he walked through.

Coming home

Seventy-three years later, Demna stages his first cruise collection for Gucci in the same city. Cruise has always been an in-between season for the house. Off-calendar, mid-year, designed for the wardrobe of the woman who travels from one summer to another.

His debut for Gucci in Milan struck a quieter note than expected: long coats, tonal knits, an emphasis on the easy proportions of the seventies. Cruise gives him a different brief. Cruise is meant to feel like a journey.

New York holds particular weight for Gucci right now. The Fifth Avenue flagship was renovated. The Soho store reopened. Under Kering’s reorganisation, the brand has been quietly rebuilding its American presence, and a cruise show on home turf reads as a deliberate flag.

New York is where Aldo Gucci built the house outward. Demna is starting from the same address.

Camille Ashworth

Cruise moves west

The Cruise 2027 season has settled in the United States. Dior takes its show to LACMA in Los Angeles on 13 May, the first cruise outing for Jonathan Anderson at the house. Three days later, Demna unveils Gucci in New York. Louis Vuitton follows on 20 May, also in the city, with Nicolas Ghesquière. Chanel showed Matthieu Blazy’s first cruise collection in Biarritz last week. The centre of gravity has moved.

Some of the shift is industry strategy. American consumers absorb a substantial share of luxury sales. Some of it is celebrity logistics. The audiences that travel for these shows live in Los Angeles and New York, and a destination collection without faces in the front row goes nowhere.

Gucci A/W 2026 by Demna at Palazzo delle Scintille, Milan

Gucci A/W 2026, Demna’s debut at Palazzo delle Scintille. Photography courtesy of Gucci / 10 Magazine

What we know

The venue stays a closely guarded secret. The candidates being whispered include a midtown museum, a converted lobby on the Upper East Side, and a shuttered gallery in Tribeca. Demna favours interiors over outdoor sets, and tends to lean toward spaces with architectural confidence.

Casting and music remain unannounced. The collection itself has been worked on across studios in Florence and Milan. When the pieces land, they will sit between what Demna built at Balenciaga and what Gucci needs to be now: established, recognisable, alive in 2026.

For now, the news is the city. New York. Sixteenth of May. Gucci comes home.